September 1980 Print

reported by a Seminarian of the Society of Saint Pius X

The seminarians completing their second year of studies at the Society of St. Pius X's house near Rome were able, during Easter week, to benefit from a five-day holiday in Venice provided by the generosity of Italian benefactors. Under the supervision of our Director, Fr. Didier Bonneterre, we left Albano after chanting Vespers in the seminary chapel. A picnic supper had been provided by the Sisters, and we very much appreciated it during the long journey by train as far as Padua.

Padua is a modern thriving metropolis whose history goes back well before the time of the Holy Roman Empire when it was already an important religious, cultural, artistic and commercial center. Today its chief claim to fame is its magnificent medieval basilica built to house the remains of St. Anthony, the great Franciscan preacher whose name is popularly invoked in the search for mislaid objects. The hotel at which we were to stay was situated very near the basilica, and from six o'clock each morning seminarians could be seen dotted all over this huge church, making their early-morning meditation and reciting their breviary.

We have the opportunity of visiting other churches in Padua, whose expansive medieval city-center is still very much unspoilt by the industrial development springing up in the suburbs. In the Benedictine Monastery of Santa Giustina, for example, a majestic sixteenth-century church surmounted by eight domes, we were able to pray at the tomb of St. Luke the Evangelist and author of the Acts of the Apostles. It is at such venerable sites of Christendom as this that one is most painfully aware of the sorrows of today's Church. Since St. Luke and the other Apostles and Evangelists first began to preach the Word of God never has the Faith been so disturbed, so endangered as in the present century; the Benedictine monk in the emerald-green shirt, one of the 'guardians' of this holy place, was a living proof. We should remember in our prayers the modern-day pastors of Christ's flock, that they may continue to spread the truth of Christ, and to safeguard the Deposit of Faith handed down to us by the Apostles.

Just over half an hour from Padua, the city of Venice is approached by a three-mile long road-rail bridge built in 1933. Stepping outside from the railway station the first view of Venice is impressive—the Grand Canal with its endless stream of gondolas and vaporetti, and immediately opposite, its steps rising out of the water, the Church of San Simone Piccolo.

This small but imposing building was to be the scene of a much publicized and controversial event this past Easter Monday: Mgr. Marcel Lefebvre, Superior of the Society of St. Pius X, was to celebrate a Solemn Pontifical Mass—his first public Mass in Italy since the Vatican attempt to suppress the Society and the Mass of St. Pius V back in 1975. As we arrived in Venice early that morning a large crowd was already gathering around the church, and television cameras being fixed into position on the bridge across the Grand Canal.

Within San Simone the atmosphere was relatively peaceful. A group of local supports was succeeding in separating the newspaper reporters and the curious from the worshippers at the entrance, and the church was quickly filled by several hundred Catholic faithful, who in a general air of expectancy quietly recited the Rosary, or followed the Low Mass being celebrated in one of the side chapels by Fr. Bonneterre.

As last-minute preparations were being made in the sacristy a loud commotion outside the church announced the arrival of Mgr. Lefebvre, who had traveled down to Venice from Ecône the night before. Despite the long journey His Grace showed no signs of fatigue, and acknowledged the enthusiasm of the crowds as he made his way through the church to the sacristy. With proverbial Italian exuberance, the faithful clapped and cheered, kneeling to receive his blessing and obviously grateful to have the opportunity of showing their loyalty and devotion to this faithful pastor and all he stands for.

The Archbishop arrived in the sacristy where the priests and seminarians were vesting for Mass. Soon the procession had formed and after bowing to the Cross, it slowly made its way towards the door into the church. As the processional cross appeared in a cloud of incense the enthusiasm of the faithful burst forth again, this time in the singing of the Sacerdos et Pontifex. Arriving at the High Altar resplendent in its Easter decorations, each seminarian in turn genuflected and made his way into the choir. The Introit was solemnly intoned and Monseigneur began the prayers at the foot of the altar. The ancient chants and ceremonies of the Easter liturgy continued: Haec est dies . . .—This is the day that the Lord hath made, let us rejoice and be glad therein.

When the deacon had completed the singing of the Gospel announcing the Resurrection of Our Lord, he incensed the Archbishop who then proceeded to address the faithful. In a sermon in which he criticized Rome's condemnation of the Society—a condemnation made without any pretense of a fair trial—the Archbishop reaffirmed his refusal to compromise the Faith and his continued belief that any renewal within the Church must come through Tradition. He also criticized the attitude of those traditionalists who take an extreme position regarding Rome, and refuse to acknowledge the lawful and divine authority of the official Church. Never has he worked against the Church—Ecône and its more than two hundred seminarians are working for the Church and within the Church. To prove this point, Mgr. Lefebvre reminded the congregation of the words of St. Pius X, Cardinal Patriarch of Venice before he was elected to the Throne of Peter; that the friends of the people are not the progressives and innovators, but rather those who remain faithful to Tradition.

After the sermon the congregation rose to its feet to profess its faith in the singing of the Credo. The Mass proceeded, and soon a hush descended on the church as the warning bell was rung for the Consecration. As the Archbishop paused and bent over the paten to whisper the words of consecration, the sacred stillness was suddenly broken by the triumphant pealing of the church bells, jubilantly proclaiming to the outside world the presence of Our Lord Jesus Christ on the altar.

As the Mass came to an end, the congregation knelt for the Pontifical Blessing. The Archbishop made the triple sign of the cross over the people, and as choir and congregation joined in the final hymn, Christus vincit, Christus regnat, Christus imperat, the clergy began the procession out of the church.

After changing out of our surplices and saying a prayer of thanksgiving, it was time to leave. Monseigneur arrived looking relaxed and cheerful, and we began the perilous descent of the steps down to the Grand Canal—perilous because of the enormous crowd of reporters and cameramen jostling each other in a frantic attempt at getting a personal interview with the Archbishop. With cameras furiously clicking and microphones being brandished in all directions, Monseigneur looked the picture of serenity as he boarded the motor launch and waved to the crowds.

Our benefactors had arranged a banquet at a restaurant outside the city, and after such a long and physically tiring day everyone was more than happy to relax in pleasant surroundings and enjoy the hospitality of our hosts.

Later in the afternoon we were taken by bus to Riese, the birthplace of Saint Pius X. For Archbishop Lefebvre as well as for the majority of the seminarians this was their first visit to this shrine, and although only a fleeting pilgrimage, the tour was made very special by the presence among us of the great-niece of St. Pius X. This wonderful old lady still lives in the home of the Sarto family where St. Pius X was born and spent his childhood. It is a simple house typical of the dwellings of the region, a house which has retained all of its charm, thanks to the care of the Sarto family who have also established behind the house a museum dedicated to the memory of this great and holy man. In the town of Riese—now officially known as Riese-San Pio Decimo—the memory of this Pope lives on. His name is to be seen everywhere you look: Giuseppe Sarto Street, Pius X Boulevard, St. Pius X Pharmacy, and so on. It was refreshing to see such devotion to our heavenly patron in these times when his successors in the hierarchy seem to prefer to forget the teachings of such a staunchly traditionalist and anti-liberal Pope.

Later in the week we had the opportunity to visit the shrine of a less well-known Servant of God, recently beatified by Pope Paul VI in May 1976. Blessed Leopold Mandic was born in what is now Yugoslavia and after a devout childhood joined the Capuchin Friars at Padua at the beginning of this century. He offered himself as a victim soul for the return of the Eastern Orthodox schismatics to the unity of the Catholic Church. A modern Curé of Ars, this friar spent his life in the confessional and after his death, his reputation of sanctity quickly spread throughout the world.

In visiting the Basilica of St. Mark in Venice we were fortunate in having as our guide for the afternoon Professor Selmi, an expert in Venetian history from the University of Venice. The immense 12th century Byzantine Church of St. Mark, formerly the private chapel of the Doge of Venice, and built to enshrine the relics of the Evangelist St. Mark is truly one of the most precious gems of Western civilization. Magnificent mosaics cover the inside of the domes, illustrating stories from the Old and New Testaments and from the history of Venice. Other art treasures include the so-called Pala d'Oro—the "golden altar-piece"—covered in precious stones and Byzantine enamels, dating from the eleventh century. The history of St. Mark's was explained by our guide who later took us on the ferry to the island Monastery of St. George. From the top of the campanile or bell-tower there is a beautiful view over the houses and canals of Venice, which we had more than enough time to contemplate as the elevator broke down; fortunately a monk managed to clamber up the series of wooden ladders in his long black habit, and we were able to descend. As we scrambled down the ladders in semi-darkness it was comforting to be reassured by the old monk that in the four hundred years since the tower was built no one had fallen down the stairs yet!

After a total of four days spent in Venice we had to take our leave of this "Most Serene Republic" and City of Saint Mark to return to our seminary at Albano. For the remainder of the vacation we were at liberty to explore Rome—a never-ending source of interest and religious inspiration.

NEWS FROM ECÔNE AND ALBANO is provided regularly by seminarians of the Society of Saint Pius X.